" Warm", "Unknown", "Good price-quality ratio", "Cheap wines", "Grenache", "Alcohol"
These words reflect the preconceptions that many people still have regarding the Languedoc as a wine region. This is what the 12 professionals who took part in the first Languedoc Camp organised by the CIVL actually answered.
And yet this region has much more to offer. During these two immersion days organised by the interprofession, focusing on the Limoux and Cabardès appellations, we discovered the diversity, the freedom of spirit and the character of the winemakers. But also the overall quality of the wines, which in the space of a few years have made a significant qualitative jump.
Let's look back in a few words at this (re)discovery of Languedoc wines.
Languedoc the diversity
The Languedoc counts 300 winegrowers spread over 40,000 hectares of vines, representing 23 AOPs where 26 grape varieties are allowed. These are head-turning figures, but they reflect the tremendous diversity of terroirs, climates, exposures, grape varieties and winemaking styles. These facts illustrate the plurality and the almost infinite number of possible combinations.
Let's take a specific example. Limoux is an appellation which is still trapped in the image of its famous Blanquette. It is one of the 23 Appellations where a multitude of different wines are produced, on 4 very distinct terroirs. Among the sparkling wines, we can mention, in addition to the Blanquette, the Crémant de Limoux, made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and the Limoux Méthode Ancestrale.
The climate is particularly suitable for the production of white wine from Chardonnay, Chenin and Mauzac. While the Autan terroir and the Mediterranean terroir produce full-bodied, rich Chardonnays, the Oceanic terroir and the Haute Vallée benefit respectively the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Pyrenees, and thus allow the production of leaner and more elegant wines.
The reds, although still confidential, are of a very high level. Because of the oceanic influence, the blends are as atypical as they are convincing: red Limoux wines must contain at least 50% Merlot, which can be blended with Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault and other typical southern French grape varieties.
But don't be fooled by the local slang and the rustic charm of the region (not to mention the cassoulet)! We were surprised by the production of Pinot Noir in the Haute Vallée, and stunned by their quality. Some of them have nothing to envy to great Burgundy wines.
Languedoc the authenticity
Authenticity is a guiding principle in this region, where it is pleasant to live and where you feel good. It means a form of simplicity with a return to true values, to sharing and to hospitality. This state of mind is deeply rooted in the region, and was frequently illustrated to us during the two days of immersion.
Authenticity is primarily seen among the locals. All the people we met are incredibly generous, welcoming and have a comforting joie de vivre. This authenticity also comes with a certain strength of character, which is directly linked to the history of the region. Over the years, winegrowers have fought to have their appellations recognised, in order to establish rules to improve the quality of the wines. Often this struggle involved a power game, and not always a peaceful one at that. But each battle has led to a change, an innovation, an evolution. It is this strength of character that still forges the identity of the region today, it is what we love and what we are looking for in the Languedoc.
The authenticity is then revealed by nature, which has kept its wild, uncontrolled and rustic character. Nature is king in this southern wine-growing landscape. It imposes its respect and guides the daily life. The resulting wines preserve that special soul that reflects the unspoilt nature, the unique climate, the pure and complex terroir. The Languedoc is a region of sumptuous biodiversity.
Finally, the authenticity of the wines stands out because of their depth. Without referring to quality, the wines have a real soul, and reflect the men and women involved in their creation. Many of the wines we tasted have a beautiful substance, an interesting texture that testifies to a real commitment in the vineyard and the cellar. Authenticity also means great diversity. The wines are neither standardised nor codified. The great diversity of grape varieties and climates makes it possible to produce wines that are noticeably different, each expressing in its own way its terroir and its aspect of the Languedoc.
Languedoc the quality
We cannot finish this article without talking about the quality of the wines. Because yes, the Languedoc is not just about Blanquette and fullbodied reds. The region has much more to offer, and is full of treasures.
To illustrate this, here are some of our top picks from the wines we tasted.
Domaine Delmas
Located in Limoux, Baptiste took over the family estate and broke free from the former wine-making style. The vines are planted at high altitude around Antugnac, one of the 4 terroirs of the appellation, on steep slopes. Although the estate has a certain reputation, Baptiste's wines are still relatively confidential but very promising. His wines are precise, elegant and they wonderfully showcase the local grape varieties. In particular L'envol, a blend of Mauzac and Chenin aged for 12 months in barrels (only 2100 bottles are produced) and Le Passeur (a blend of Chardonnay, Mauzac and Chenin).
Domaine Mouscaillo
The wines of the estate are as diverse as they are interesting and wonderfully balanced by the combination of 3 distinct climatic effects (Mediterranean, Atlantic and Pyrenees). The crémants impress with their structure, complexity and decidedly Champenois style. The Crémant de Limoux Brut Nature is a blend of 70% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir and 10% Chenin, giving it a fruity and vibrant tension. The grapes are picked slightly over-ripe (12°) which brings richness and a certain smoothness, reminiscent of the long maturing process in Champagne.
Château la Négly
Château Négly is located in the massif of La Clape, on the Mediterranean coast. It enjoys a rather exceptional climate with the Pyrenees on one side, the Mediterranean on the other, and very good sunshine. The property produces plot-based cuvées designed like Bordeaux garage wines, and some cuvees are produced in very limited quantities (which also explains their price, which reaches over 130€). However, the quality is there, and the "entry-level" wines are interesting, with good concentration and volume in the mouth. We were impressed by the Cuvée Falaise, which has great concentration and freshness, with ripe, smooth tannins and aromas of raspberry, chocolate and black olive.
"Diversity", " Welcoming", "Warm", "Richness", "Subtlety", "Sun", "Climates"
These are the words that concluded the Languedoc camp, stated by the same people. This proves that 2 days were enough to change people's attitude and to challenge the stereotypes.
We would like to warmly thank the Languedoc for their welcome and for the organisation of this seminar.
Kieran & Pierre